Someone on the Guild website has asked about Papié Maché and I gave my own method. I thought this might also be of interest to some on here therefore:
There are very many methods of using papié maché, either layers method or pulp method. Using pulp you can either model directly, or press the pulp in a mould made from a clay original.
Anyway, assuming that you want to model directly using the pulp as a modelling clay which will eventually harden. Here is my method:
I start off my tearing newspapers into pieces about half the size of a playing card. I fill a bucket with these. I then pour on boiling water to cover and allow to soak until water is cool.
I then take a piece of broom handle about a foot long around which I am going to make some light weight armatures. I take a couple of handfuls of the sodden paper and squeeze it tightly around the end of the stick, moulding it to form a rough headshape, about the size of the finished head. add more paper to bulk out to size. Squeeze to get as much water out as possible and to compact the paper ball.
Carefully remove the stick from the neck hole and lay the paper head aside to dry out in a warm place. It needs many hours to get thoroughly dry. I make a number of these armatures at a time. They will last indefinitely.
Since these are only armatures they need not be super smooth and therefore the papié maché can be quite rough. Also no adhesive is required, there is enough starch in the paper to make the layers adhere.
The next stage is to make a fine modelling clay from papié maché to model the shell of the head and face over the lightweight armature.
Start with the same pulp we used originally, but now this must be stirred, and pummelled, and squeezed and rubbed between the hands until the mixture resembles grey porridge. Then all the water must be squeezed out - first by hand, then through muslin, until we are left with a damp pile of grey currant sized (or smaller) bits.
We now mix this with an adhesive paste - I use hot flour and water paste. I stir this in to the damp pulp until it is the consistency of very very sticky placticine. Do not get it too sloppy. I also work in a few drops of oil of cloves which allows me to keep the mixture a few days without going rancid. I now work into the sticky mess enough Whiting to absorb the stickiness until the mixture achieves the consistency of softened plasticine.
We don't want to add too much Whiting because it adds weight and reduces the strength of the mixture, but it does make for a lovely smooth finish.
We then cover one of the dried armatures with a layer of the fine modelling mixture, and sculpt our head. I use the back of a teaspoon as a modelling tool. The surface can be smoothed, as you progress, with water.
When complete the head is set aside to dry, with the stick inserted back in the neck hole so that the head can be supported upright.
When thoroughly dry the head can be given a single layer of white tissue paper pieces which does protect the head against chipping. Of course oil paints or acrylics also strengthen the surface. I have heads made in this way which have lasted well over 50 years and are still undamaged.




