PUNCH HEAD CARVING

[lesclarke]

Drawing an object, requires a lot of looking at that object, and helps better understand the various shapes. To better understand the appeal, of the Wal Kent style of Punch head, a while back, I made a plasticine head in a similar style. I didn't measure anything as I wasn't aiming at a copy, but in spending time making it I began to better appreciate the proportions, lines and relationships, that though simple seem to work so well.

The idea was to make it in paper mache, but after putting it off for a while I decided that it would be a good basis for the carving of my first Punch head, but I waited again until I was really 'in the mood.'

For the main head section, I used a piece of reclaimed pine a mate had given me some years ago which he reckoned was around 70plus years old, and it turned out to be a treat to carve, offcuts of 'hard' wood were used for the chin and nose, and ply for the ears.

After drafting out the front and sides I found looking at the flat block with front and side elevations shown very off-putting, but it seemed to find its direction. Through not checking things often enough (needed more looking and less cutting) it has come out longer than planned, but
soon after I got the Dremel out with its cutting and sanding tools, progress was quicker and I really began to enjoy it.

I find it better to make some decent progress and then have a break, possibly overnight, and then back to the 'lots of looking' as sometimes it's easy to miss something obvious.









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[lesclarke]

Free at last...
Head is now 'off the block..'



It's been interesting and the more I've worked on it, the more I've realised how important the 'looking' is.

[Chris]

Very impressive Les, if that is your first attempt. But I have reservations about the ears?

[lesclarke]

I may rethink them, Chris, making them sturdier, or even do without, but then again I have Judy belt Punch on his left ear as the very first contact for the slapstick.

[Chris]

It's the shape of them Les, and the position of them?
I know we are not talking human anatomy - but we are using that as a base point. In general the top of the ear is level with the eyes, and the base is in line with the mouth.
And it is set back about half way front to back.
So your ear could be set back further, set lower and made bigger top to bottom.
Actually if you compare your plasticine model with your wooden one you will find that the former is better positioned.

[lesclarke]

You are right about about the size and shape Chris. I had a size and shape 'in my head' and was not concentrating at the time, I'd found a bit of ply and sized and shaped it 'freehand' and then was myself a bit surprised when I compared it with the original.
They are only held at present with tiny screws, so I'll leave it and then have another go.

[lesclarke]

Just remembered how I got the shapes for the attached nose and chin pieces. As a guide to size and shape I loosely modelled each in blu-tak, and stuck them in place to judge their effectiveness, and I shall use this metod to make some new ears.

[lesclarke]

...bigger ears. One reason for the initial small ears was that because of the protruding cheekbones they cant be seen well from the front view, also I was trying to make them simple and sturdy/well attached. But as well as getting it visually better, making them bigger has given larger 'contact point' for the attachment, so they now seem well attached.









Even at this late stage in the carving I am still noticing new things about the various shapes.

[Richard Coombs]

Absolutely wonderful Les !

And you have obviously had a blast doing it too.

Thank you so much for the detailed step by step pics too.
(Im wondering whether my next Punch is going to start as a solid block of wood now , instead of ply laminates )

Cant wait to see pics of him painted and dressed

Thanks for sharing ...and CONGRATULATIONS


Richard

[lesclarke]

Glad you like it Richard.
I think it turned out well for a number of reasons.
I did 'what you are supposed to do' in carefully drawing it out, even though this initially put me off!
I had made the plasticene version, so I already partly understood the 3D shapes.
I had a really nice piece of wood, good sharp chisels, and my trusty Dremel.
...I did so much and then had a long look and consideration about the next moves.
...and I waited until I was really in the mood and keen to get on with it, no pressure etc.

[CvdC]

Could you tell me what the dimensions of the block of wood you began with were?

[lesclarke]

It was 4" wide x 3" deep and approx 10" long, it's ended up 7" long. The extra length was useful for holding it in the vise etc. The widest point is at the cheekbones.

[Davepuppets]

Is carving with pine easy? I was told not to use it because it is too grainy but Im sure Bryan Clarke puppets are made from it. Is this cheaper than lime?

cheers dave

[lesclarke]

If you look through fairly recent postings you'll find lots of mention of different types of wood. It seems that Lime is regarded as 'easier to carve', but pine has been used by many Punch makers.

Of course there is pine and pine. In other words it varies.
I'd suggest that someone using poor chisels would make a mess of a prime piece of Lime, but someone else with good chisels would do well with any decent piece of pine.

[lesclarke]

it was ...'wood for carving' posted march 19 by CvdC ...in this workshop section