Yes that is a point. I should have photographed it while it was primed.
I have updated the drawings. They now include the legs and hands. The hands are two inches long. They are quite large. As I said above I think they are designed to flap about and so add more movement to the puppets.
The drawings are aligned so that I can cross check the measurements of the front and side views. This is called orthographic projection.
I am going through this process in some detail so that you can see how the process works. From the careful analysis of the puppet right through to the finished puppet.
The way the drawings are used is:
I trace the profile form a side on photo on the computer but you could use photocopies and tracing paper. I then ensure that the profile fits the size I want. This often tends to be 6" from the bottom of the neck to the top of the head.
A lot of fiddling about is done to ensure nice curves and that the head will be balanced, which basically means there is enough wood on the back of the head to balance the weight of the chin and nose.
The profile, minus the nose, is then cut out of the wood, which is 3 1/4" square or in my case I use three laminated pieces that are easier on the band saw I use.
Then I trace out the shape of the front shape and cut that out of the wood.
This should give me a square neck and reasonably square top of the head. The head is then rounded. The neck is made circular but the head has a flattened circle. The back of the head can be round or quite flat. The Judy puppet in this set has virtually no back of the head; she is all face.
It is quite important that the front of the face is flat so that the eyes face forward and you have a flat spot for the nose. I usually glue and dowel the nose and chin in place before the rounding.
Once the basic form of the head is carved you then use the front view of the drawings to mark out the eyes and the mouth. That line around the mouth (Does it have a name?) is very important. You can then check these with the side drawing.
The eyes must face forward. If the wood was rounded too much the eyes will face out at 45 degrees and from the side look like an egyptian painting. From the side you should not be able to the white of the eye on the other side of the iris. So this should be drawn as well. I use a dark soft pencil so I get clear lines on the wood.
The smile is a product of both the front and side views. It is a very important feature of any Punch puppet. There are many different smiles. Kasper puppets from Germany smile differently from British Punch puppets. Some smirk others grimace.
So it very important at this stage to ensure that you have just the smile you want.
At this point you have finished with the drawing. If I am making a replica I use angled photos (as above) while carving. If I am making an original puppet I hold the puppet at arms length and imagine the character. I drill the finger hole and at times have it move about as if it were performing. It looks stupid but it is all part of the process of ensuring that the puppet is gaining its character. This is the animism of puppetry.
It is why you do it.